The 5 Seeds That You Need to Stockpile in Your Pantry

The 5 Essential Seeds Every Prepper Should Stockpile For Self-Sufficiency

In uncertain times, the ability to grow your own food becomes not just a hobby, but a survival necessity. Whether facing economic instability, supply chain disruptions, or natural disasters, your seed stockpile becomes your food security insurance policy. While commercial preparedness supplies serve valuable functions, developing a strategic seed bank provides a renewable food source independent of outside systems.

Today, I’m sharing the five most critical seeds that deserve a place in every prepper’s pantry. These selections offer high nutritional value, relative ease of growing, and most importantly—the ability to harvest your own seeds for continued planting season after season.

Why Your Seed Selection Matters

The modern food supply faces mounting challenges from climate change impacts, transportation vulnerabilities, and increasing corporate control. According to the Intergovernmental Panel on Climate Change (IPCC), we can expect continued global climate warming over the coming decades, affecting traditional growing patterns.

Creating your own seed bank with heirloom seeds gives you control over your food supply. Unlike genetically modified varieties, heirloom seeds:

Come from original cultivar plants
Often develop natural disease resistance
Produce seeds you can harvest and replant
Contain no laboratory-modified genes

WARNING: Many seed companies have been acquired by large agricultural corporations. When building your seed bank, source from companies that explicitly state they are GMO-free. Companies like Seeds Now and others listed in their “About Us” sections often detail their commitment to non-GMO practices.

1. Squash Seeds

Squash varieties provide exceptional nutritional and caloric value for survival situations. These versatile vegetables offer:

Rich sources of vitamins A and C
Essential minerals including magnesium and potassium
High carbohydrate content for sustained energy
Versatility in both sweet and savory dishes

Depending on your climate, you might focus on summer squash for cooler regions or varieties like butternut and pumpkin for warmer areas. Though thirsty plants, their nutritional density makes them worth the water investment.

Harvesting Squash Seeds:

Cut open a fully mature squash and remove the seed mass with pulp
Rinse seeds thoroughly in a colander until all pulp is removed
Spread cleaned seeds on absorbent paper, ensuring no seeds touch
Dry in a cool, dry location for approximately one week
Select the largest seeds for best germination potential
Store in paper envelopes in a cool, dark place

2. Green Beans

Green beans rank among the easiest crops to grow while delivering impressive nutritional benefits:

High in vitamins A, C, B6, and B12
Packed with antioxidants for immune system support
Require minimal space with vertical growing patterns
Produce abundant harvests with basic care

Even dwarf varieties benefit from simple cane supports, and most varieties are prolific producers throughout the growing season.

Harvesting Bean Seeds:

Stop watering plants around September to encourage pod development
Allow larger pods to remain on plants until leaves begin to die back
Harvest these mature pods specifically for seed collection
Carefully open pods along the seam and extract seeds without damaging them
Dry seeds on paper-lined trays for 1-2 weeks in a cool, dry place
Store in sealed jars away from light and moisture

3. Spinach

This nutrient-dense leafy green provides exceptional nutritional value per square foot of garden space:

Exceptional source of vitamins A and C
Rich in iron, potassium, and magnesium
Versatile for consumption both raw and cooked
Thrives in spring and fall growing seasons

For maximum seed production, baby spinach varieties typically perform best.

Harvesting Spinach Seeds:

Allow plants to bolt and flower (note: leaves become bitter at this stage)
Identify female plants (green seed balls) and male plants (yellow seed balls)
Assist pollination by gently shaking male plants to release pollen
Harvest female plants when they begin turning yellow
Hang plants upside down in a dry location for about two weeks
Collect the small seeds by shaking dried plants over paper
Store in sealed containers; spinach seeds typically remain viable for one season

4. Potatoes

A staple crop throughout history, potatoes provide substantial caloric value with minimal growing space:

Excellent source of potassium, copper, and vitamin B6
High-yield crop from minimal planting stock
Can be grown in containers, traditional beds, or specialized towers
Varieties available with resistance to common diseases

For long-term preparedness, focus on disease-resistant varieties like Charlotte, Caribbean, Purple Peruvian, and Prince Hairy, which resist common blights and potato beetles.

Working with Potato Seeds:

True Potato Seeds:

Harvest green seed pods when soft and ripe
Crush pods in water and let sit overnight to separate seeds
Collect the small seeds that sink to the bottom
Dry thoroughly on absorbent materials
Note: Growing from true seed requires two seasons to produce edible tubers

Seed Potatoes (Recommended Method):

Save sprouting potatoes from previous harvests
Place in egg cartons with sprout end up
Allow to “chit” (pre-sprout) for about 6 weeks in a light, frost-free area
Plant when sprouts reach approximately 1 inch in length

5. Corn

In suitable climates, corn provides excellent caloric density and versatility:

Substantial source of carbohydrates for energy
Contains iron and vitamin B6
Versatile for multiple food preparations
Can be ground for cornmeal and flour

For successful corn cultivation and seed saving, plant in blocks rather than rows to improve wind pollination.

Harvesting Corn Seeds:

Leave mature ears on stalks for 6 weeks after normal harvest time
Allow ears to dry completely on the stalk (protect from rain if possible)
Test kernels for dryness—they should resist denting with a thumbnail
Hand-rub dried kernels from the cob
Continue drying loose kernels for 1-2 additional weeks
Remove any remaining silk or debris
Store in sealed containers in a cool, dry location

IMPORTANT: To prevent issues with inbreeding, maintain a diverse genetic pool by growing at least 100 plants for seed saving purposes.

Building Your Long-Term Seed Bank

Beyond these five essential seed types, continue expanding your collection based on your region’s climate, personal nutritional needs, and growing experience. Consider complementary crops like tomatoes, carrots, and leafy greens to create a well-rounded survival garden.

Store your seed collection in a cool, dry location using:

Paper envelopes for breathability
Glass jars with desiccant packets
Vacuum-sealed bags for longer-term storage
Clearly labeled containers with variety and harvest date

Remember, a true seed bank isn’t just about quantity—it’s about quality, diversity, and the knowledge to successfully grow and save seeds season after season.

Deadly Plants That Look Safe to Eat

In any survival situation, finding food becomes a top priority. While you may have emergency supplies stored away, these stockpiles might not always be accessible during a crisis. When conventional food sources are unavailable, foraging for wild edibles could become your lifeline.

Most forested areas are abundant with edible plants that can sustain you until you reach safety. However, this natural bounty comes with a potentially deadly risk: many toxic plants closely resemble their edible counterparts. The ability to distinguish between safe and poisonous plants isn’t just a useful skill—it could determine whether you survive or perish in the wilderness.

Below are five deadly plants you must avoid when foraging in the wild. Learning to identify these toxic species could save your life when you’re forced to live off the land.

1. Moonseed

Menispermum canadense, commonly known as Moonseed, is a woody vine that grows 8-20 feet long. Young stems appear green to brownish-red with slight hairiness, while older stems become hairless and woody. The smooth leaves measure up to 6 inches long and 8 inches across, often hanging downward.

White or yellowish flower clusters may appear along the non-woody stems, reaching up to 5 inches in length. These flowers bloom from late spring to early summer, lasting approximately two weeks.

Female flowers develop into small berries by late summer or early fall, closely resembling wild grapes—which creates a dangerous situation for foragers.

Native to North America and particularly common in Illinois, this low-lying vine contains the highly toxic alkaloid dauricine throughout all parts of the plant. Ingestion can cause convulsions and death.

Fortunately, the berries have an unpleasant taste that often warns foragers away. However, because Moonseed closely resembles edible Fox Grapes or Wild Grapes, people sometimes harvest and consume it by mistake—with potentially fatal consequences.

When foraging, always examine grape-like fruits carefully. Moonseeds contain a single crescent-shaped seed (hence the name), while true grapes have round seeds. Also note that grapevines have forked tendrils, while Moonseed vines lack tendrils completely.

Signs and symptoms of Moonseed poisoning include:

Confusion
Diarrhea
Dizziness
Difficulty breathing
Irregular heart rate
Stomach pain
Vomiting
Nausea
Pupil changes
Cardiac arrest
Weakness or paralysis
Seizures

*If Moonseed is consumed, seek immediate medical attention to remove the toxins and treat related symptoms.

2. Snakeroot

White Snakeroot plants feature coarse-toothed, round-based leaves with pointed tips and can reach up to 3 feet (1m) in height. Clusters of white flowers grow atop the stems throughout summer and fall.

This plant thrives in shaded areas and commonly appears along roadsides, in thickets, or under power lines.

The leaves and stems contain tremetol, a fat-soluble toxin that poisons livestock that consume it. This toxin then passes into the milk of lactating animals, which led to “milk sickness” that killed thousands of settlers in the American frontier, including Abraham Lincoln’s mother.

The plant’s name derives from the mistaken belief that its roots could cure snakebites. While it has been used medicinally for generations, even medicinal use is now discouraged due to its toxicity.

Though rarely fatal to humans through direct consumption, Snakeroot is most dangerous when fresh and green. Even dried specimens retain toxicity. For animals, consuming just 1-10% of their body weight over several weeks can prove fatal.

Signs and symptoms of Milk sickness (tremetol vomiting):

Trembling
Vomiting
Severe intestinal pain

*Milk sickness can occur even without directly consuming the plant—simply by ingesting animal products from livestock that have eaten Snakeroot.

3. Pokeweed (aka Wild Parsnips/Carrots)

Phytolacca americana, commonly called Pokeweed, is native to eastern North America and the midwest but has spread throughout Canada, the United States, Europe, and Asia.

Considered a nuisance by farmers, pokeweed is toxic to humans, dogs, and livestock. What makes this plant particularly dangerous is that it’s edible in spring with proper preparation, but becomes deadly as the season progresses.

All parts contain toxic compounds—phytolaccatoxin and phytolaccigenin—with the highest concentrations found in roots, stems, and leaves. Even the berries, which look temptingly similar to edible fruits, contain enough toxins to cause serious harm.

Pokeweed can be identified by its large, fleshy white taproot (often 4-6 inches in diameter) and deep reddish-purple stems that can grow 3-7 feet tall. Whitish-green flowers consist of 5 petal-like rounded sepals growing in clusters opposite the leaves.

These flowers develop into 8-10 small, juicy berries that are flat and round. Initially light green, the berries mature to black or purple and typically hang heavily on drooping stems. Each berry contains a small, black lens-shaped seed surrounded by juice that’s an intense blood-red color.

Native Americans historically used pokeweed medicinally, and the berry juice served as a natural red dye.

Signs and symptoms of Pokeweed poisoning include:

Diarrhea (sometimes bloody)
Stomach pain
Nausea and vomiting
Weakness
Muscle spasms
Convulsions
Seizures
Headache
Heart block
Rapid pulse
Low blood pressure
Slow or difficult breathing

*Other names for Pokeweed poisoning include American nightshade poisoning, Inkberry poisoning, Pigeon Berry poisoning, Pokeberry poisoning, Scoke poisoning, Virginia poke poisoning, and Poke salad poisoning.

Treatment

Pokeweed poisoning requires immediate medical attention. In a survival situation where emergency care is unavailable, creating activated charcoal by burning wood or dense plant fiber until only carbon remains might help absorb toxins. However, this process takes hours and requires additional chemicals to be effective, making it challenging in emergency situations.

*If you or someone with you has consumed pokeweed, call poison control or proceed to the nearest emergency medical facility immediately.

4. Belladonna or Deadly Nightshade

Atropa belladonna—commonly known as Belladonna or Deadly Nightshade—is a poisonous perennial herbaceous plant in the nightshade family. Found throughout Europe, Northern Africa, Western Asia, and scattered across North America, it’s considered one of the most poisonous plants known to humanity.

The foliage and berries contain extremely toxic tropane alkaloids. All parts of the plant are dangerous, with leaves most poisonous during budding or flowering, and roots most toxic at the end of the vegetation period.

The berries pose the greatest risk because they look appetizing and have a somewhat sweet taste that might not immediately warn of danger.

Despite its name meaning “beautiful lady” in Italian (referring to its historical use by women to dilate pupils for cosmetic purposes), Belladonna is exceptionally hazardous. The plant affects the nervous system and is poisonous to both humans and most animals.

Symptoms may include:

Dry mouth
Red, dry skin
Inability to sweat
Muscle spasms
Blurred vision
Enlarged pupils
Hallucinations
Inability to urinate
Seizures
Convulsions
Coma
Death

Belladonna derivatives are used in many over-the-counter medications to treat conditions including common cold, fever, whooping cough, earache, asthma, motion sickness, flu, joint and back pain, inflammation, and nerve issues. However, without proper dosing and medical supervision, these compounds can have serious side effects.

*If consumed, seek medical attention immediately. Activated charcoal is commonly used to remove toxins, along with supportive treatment for individual symptoms.

5. Rhododendron

Found throughout most of the eastern and western United States, rhododendron leaves are easily mistaken for bay leaves. Using these leaves to season an emergency meal could prove disastrous.

Rhododendrons and their close relatives, azaleas, contain grayanotoxins that cause similar types of poisoning. Honey produced from rhododendron flowers is known as “mad honey” because it can cause confusion and other neurological symptoms when consumed.

Poison control centers frequently receive calls in spring and early summer about children who have put the flowers or leaves in their mouths. While ingestion typically causes mild mouth irritation, nausea, and vomiting, severe and life-threatening poisoning can occur.

The honey derived from rhododendron flowers contains the highest concentration of grayanotoxins (also known as andromedotoxin, acetylandromedol, rhodotoxin, and asebotoxin). These neurotoxins are found throughout the Ericaceae or Heather family of plants.

Mad Honey poisoning symptoms appear from minutes to hours after ingestion and include:

Salivation
Vomiting
Circumoral paralysis (around the mouth)
Low blood pressure
Low heart rate
Loss of coordination
Progressive muscle weakness
Gastrointestinal issues
Dizziness
Loss of balance
Difficulty breathing

*Rhododendron poisoning is rarely fatal to humans, with symptoms typically resolving within 24 hours. Death is much more common among grazing animals that ingest this plant.

Treatment:

Treatment involves techniques to induce vomiting and repeated doses of activated charcoal. Seek medical attention as soon as possible if you suspect rhododendron poisoning.

Dangers Close to Home: Rhubarb Leaves

Dangerous plants aren’t only found in the wilderness—they can be growing in your own backyard. Rhubarb, for example, produces edible stalks but extremely toxic leaves. The high concentration of oxalic acid in rhubarb leaves can cause severe health problems if consumed.

Rhubarb leaf poisoning can cause:

Breathing difficulty
Burning in the throat
Coma
Eye pain
Kidney stones
Nausea
Red-colored urine
Seizures
Stomach pain
Vomiting
Weakness

Conclusion

While the wilderness offers many edible plants for survival, it also harbors species that can cause serious harm or death if consumed improperly. Being able to confidently identify both safe and dangerous plants could mean the difference between life and death in a crisis situation.

Take the time to learn proper plant identification before you need these skills. Consider taking a local foraging class, studying field guides specific to your region, or connecting with experienced foragers who can provide hands-on guidance. The knowledge you gain may one day save your life or the lives of those depending on you.

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When foraging in the wild, knowing which plants to avoid can be just as important as knowing which ones are safe to eat. Some of the deadliest plants in North

Convert Your Mower Into A Survival Generator

Spring is in the air and with it comes yard work. For some we have already started planting our gardens, others are tending to their chickens and most have to start cutting the grass. I know you may hear the Home Depot song playing in your mind as you think of mulching and planting and sprucing up after winter’s snooze but I have already been cutting my grass and it is due again for another visit with the lawnmower.

As I started to think about getting out there and cutting the grass, I wondered if there would be a use for items like my trusty lawnmower when the grid goes down. Why? Because if you are like me, the last thing you are going to worry about is a nicely trimmed yard. Heck, we all might need to tear up the pretty green carpet to make way for additional garden capacity and if that happens, what could we do with that mower? Even if we didn’t have a grid-down emergency what other purposes could our mower serve?

You will need the following tools/parts:

Lawn Engine motor

The generator project will require a vertical shaft gas engine from a lawn mower. The typical lawn mower engine will be 3 to 5 horse power and will have a 7/8″ shaft, with a 3/16″ key way and a threaded hole in the bottom of the shaft. Most of these engines have either 3 or 4 bolts holding them down to the existing lawn mower base.

Alternator – A GM 10SI or 12SI style automotive alternator.

The alternator will fall into one of three categories:

A) External voltage regulator type.This type of alternator does not have an internal regulator and must have one connected externally to control the alternator field intensity and thus the output voltage and current of the alternator. The disadvantage in using this type of alternator is that connection is a bit more complicated and the regulator is an added component that must be mounted and connected properly. This type of alternator is typically less expensive than the other options shown below, but like the model with an internal regulator, it too requires an external on / off switch or the alternator and regulator pair can discharge batteries when it is not charging and the switch is left on.
B) Single wire connection type with internal regulator.The single wire connection type alternator automatically starts producing output power when the RPM of the input shaft reaches a minimum speed. And, when the RPM drops below a preset speed the output stops. A big advantage is that it does not require a switch to isolate the alternator from the battery source to keep the alternator from draining the battery when not in use. The disadvantage in using this type of alternator is that the alternator will start to charge the batteries as soon as the minimum speed is reached, and will place a load on the engine as soon as the minimum RPM is achieved. In some cases, you might need to throttle through this minimum RPM range to insure that the motor does not bog down at low RPM when the alternator begins to produce power. Another disadvantage is that these alternators are more expensive than other options, but it provides a very simple connection method.
C) Internal regulator type with external control switch.Another option is to use the type we used on our last project. This alternator has an internal voltage regulator but requires an external switch to start or stop power production. The advantage in using this model is that the alternator can be switched off while the motor is still running and power output stops. This aids in connecting and disconnecting batteries or other loads.
One note in the Single wire connection type with internal regulator:

We found that the single wire configuration is not ideal for this application. Because the lawn mower engine mentioned above doesn’t have much throttle adjustment, if a single wire configuration is used with a 2 1/2 inch pulley on the motor the alternator doesn’t kick in without manually moving the throttle butterfly to a higher setting and then releasing. This problem might be eliminated by using a 3″ pulley. However, a single wire configuration can be used on our last project using a horizontal shaft engine. The problem we have right now, is that we don’t have all the answers yet for this configuration. Feel free to experiment, but with the motor we used and the pulley we used, it wasn’t convent in that you had to reach under the carburetor to throttle up manually to start generation.

Electrical Wires – Think wire harness for your car battery

A positive and a negative car battery cable is needed, as well as an alternator connector and associated wires. The alternator wires are not needed if a single wire alternator with built in regulator is used.

A belt – An A Style Industrial Belt to be more precise

The V-Belt transfers power from the pulley (which will be mounted) on the motor to the pulley on the alternator. Various belt lengths can be used if your mounting system provides for several inches of belt length adjustment. Keep in mind that the belt length should be kept to a minimum to reduce belt slap and associated wear.

We have found that the Automotive V-belt used on a standard alternator is not compatible with the industrial “A” size belt that mates with all pulleys you will find for the motor. However, if you use an industrial “A” style V-belt, it will provide an exact fit for the motor and an “OK” fit for the alternator. Replacing the pulley on the alternator to match the pulley on the motor is an option (a more expensive option) but would be the ideal solution.

Cast Iron Pulley

The motor pulley needs to be high quality cast iron. The mass of a cast iron pulley tends to act as a flywheel, taking the place of the mass of the lawn mower blade. Remember that most lawn mower engines have a very light aluminum fly wheel and use the steel blade as part of the effective fly wheel mass. The added weight of the cast iron pulley (compared to the mass of an aluminum pulley) helps the engine idle smoothly and helps keep belt slap to a minimum.

Mounting Bracket

The mounting bracket is the most complicated part of the project. The great thing about the bracket is that it’s Universal in design and allows use of a wide variety of engine manufacturers and engine models.

It not only eliminates hours of time figuring out the bolt pattern of your motor, but also eliminates the trial and error guess work in finding a belt length that will work once the motor and alternator are mounted. Additionally, the bracket can be bolted down to a simple base of your own design and the rest of the work is done!

Detailed instructions on how to work on this project:

The first step is to remove the motor from the lawn mower base. Typically, there are 3 or 4 bolts holding the motor to the base, but before you remove them, you will need to remove the mower blade and the shaft coupler that holds the blade on the motor shaft. Getting the blade and the coupling off is a bit of a pain. Removing the blade is not nearly as difficult, but still requires a bit of ingenuity to figure out a way to “jam” the blade so it won’t rotate while you remove the bolt which holds it in place on the motor shaft.

We found that we had to use a “pulley puller”, to remove the shaft coupler after the mower blade was removed. A “pulley puller” which can be rented or purchased at most auto parts stores. Removing the coupler is difficult to impossible without use of this tool.

The next hassle will be in finding the required pulley. Our research indicated that nearly all the motors used in vertical shaft lawn mowers have a 7/8″ shaft, and a 3/16″ or 1/4″ key way. However, horizontal shaft motors under about 7 HP use a 3/4″ shaft. The 3/4″ pulleys can be found at most hardware stores, but the 7/8″ pulleys are impossible to find. What we had to do was to set up an account with a company that supplies Heating and Air Conditioning Systems, Motors, Blowers and Components to be able to order the correct pulleys.

Another catch is that a 3/16″ key way is not standard on cast iron pulleys. What we found was that a 1/4″ key way is the norm because most high horse power AC motors use a 1/4″ size key way. A pulley with a 3/16″ key way is not typically available in a 7/8″ shaft diameter configuration. It is possible to use a pulley with a 1/4″ key way on a motor that has a 3/16″ key way provided that the set screw is on top of the key on the motor shaft and NOT on the shaft itself. If close attention is paid to this detail the pulley will stay in place without vibrating or loosening.

The biggest problem is figuring out how to bolt everything together. Because each type of mower had different a base, we ended up concentrating on coming up with a universal base that just about any motor could fit on. Our base had to allow rotating the motor by about 30 degrees, and allow positioning the motor in any of the 90 degree quadrants. That allowed the motor to be in any position with clearance for the alternator and a method for hooking up the belt. We also wanted to allow the alternator position to be adjusted allowing for several belt sizes to be used. The bracket also has an integral belt adjustment slot which allows the alternator position to be adjusted, which also serves to tension the belt.

The lawn mower engine

The lawn mower we used had a 3.5 Horse power Briggs and Stratton 4 stroke gas engine. That particular model motor has a safety shut off lever on the lawn mower handle which has a cable attached to the motor, and the attached cable must be activated to disengage the motor shut off break and to allow spark to reach the spark plug. What we decided to do was to cut the cable off and deactivate the motor shut off feature. If your motor has this feature, you will need to spend some time looking at the cable and the levers on the motor to figure out a way to deactivate or preserve the feature. In either case the motor will not start unless something is done about the cable and levers.

We found that there was a small hole in one of the lever plates on the side of the engine, and after pulling the cable, a small nail can be inserted into the lever to keep the mechanism from retracting and shutting off the motor. Like I said, it will take a bit of time to figure out how your motor shut off mechanism works (if there is one installed on your motor).

Most of the lawn mower engines you will find have a 7/8″ shaft and a 3/16″ key way cut into the shaft. They also have a threaded hole in the bottom of the shaft.

Pulley Size and Type

The vertical shaft motor from this lawn mower would not throttle as high as the same horse power motor we used in the horizontal shaft generator project. That motor was from a lawn edger, and could be set to a higher maximum speed. After talking with some lawn mower experts, we were told that the throttle mechanism on the lawn mower has the maximum throttle set to be about 75% of the maximum butter fly valve position of the carburetor. We were told that the lawn mower manufacturers set the throttle mechanism that way so there is extra throttle capability for when the mower hits some heavy or wet grass. The motor could then self throttle to a higher setting if necessary, then throttle back to the pre set throttle setting.

The reason we mention all this is that the pulley size we used on the horizontal shaft motor project would not work on this project. In testing this motor with the throttle set as high as possible without modifying the carburetor, and using a 4 3/4″ pulley on the motor (similar size to the one on our other project), the motor would bog down and die with a 39 Amp load on the alternator. Without modifying the carburetor, we couldn’t keep the thing running when the load was switched in with the large size pulley.

We had excellent results with a 2 1/2″ pulley. It allowed the alternator to output voltage at even half or lower throttle settings at a slightly lower output current. So, with less than full demand, the motor speed could be reduced without killing the motor, and providing fuel savings.

Mounting the Motor and Alternator

Mounting all this stuff is the tricky part of this project. But to make things easy, we designed and manufactured a bracket to make the task simple.

The bracket is made from 1/8″ steel and has provisions for mounting the motor and alternator, and additional holes for mounting the plate to a base of your own design.

What we did for the base was cut two 2×4’s the length of the bracket, and another 2×4 as a cross brace to be installed under the bracket at the bottom of the long 2×4’s. Imagine the base as being an H. The two long pieces were installed so that the base was 4 inches in height, and the cross brace was installed on the two length wise 2×4’s at the bottom, and on it’s side so that it stood 2″ in height. That provided the necessary clearance for the belt and provided stabilization of the two side pieces. A further improvement would be to install two more short 2×4 at each end of the assembly to completely box in the rotating pulleys (for added safety).

We elected to mount the alternator in such a manor that it actually runs backwards. This simplifies the hook up and it still works. The fan still functions, but instead of pulling air through the back and exhausting through the front, the air flow direction is reversed. Also, the fan blades are not as efficient when running backwards so air flow is reduced slightly. But, remember that like in the other project, the alternator is mounted to a steel plate which also serves as a large heat sink. And from the two hour test run at 39 Amp output, the alternator case temperature was only 148 degrees (ambient temperature was 80 degrees). So, I guess what I’m saying is that it really doesn’t matter. These alternators normally spend most of their lives under the hood of cars stuck in traffic jams on hot days, and see temperatures much higher than this.

Now, getting back to the mounting issues: The lawn mower engine has a longer shaft than the alternator, and if the pulley is installed in the ideal location on the motor shaft the two pulleys do not align. So, what we found was that the alternator needs to be mounted flush on top of the bracket but the motor needs to be spaced 1″ above the mounting plate. This is easily carried out by using 1″ longer bolts, and 1″ long spacer tubes. Then the alignment of the pulleys is correct.

Wiring it up

The wiring depends on which alternator you choose. All three alternator types are shown.

Do not wire the alternator unless you are sure about what type you are using. If you make a mistake in the selection of the alternator or wiring diagram you run a very high risk of damaging your battery, electronic devices, or worse yet causing personal injury! Consult a parts professional for additional information!

This tip is intended for educational purposes only. No guarantees are expressed or implied as to the accuracy of information presented here! Consult with an automotive wiring expert before attempting to carry out any wiring.

If you are using an alternator that requires an external switch, you will need to turn off the switch prior to attempting to start the generator. If the switch is on, the generator will try to output voltage while you are pulling the starting cord on the motor. You will find that it will be nearly impossible to pull the cord! If the switch is off, then there is little to no resistance from the alternator. Once the motor is running, the switch can be set to the on position.

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Spring is in the air and with it comes yard work. For some we have already started planting our gardens, others are tending to their chickens and most have to start cutting

How To Prepare For Water Emergencies: Complete Guide to Storage, Purification, and Emergency Readiness

The Overlooked Necessity

We take it for granted—turn on the faucet, and water flows freely. But what happens when those faucets stop working? Whether due to power outages, contaminated supply lines, or natural disasters, a water emergency can strike with little warning. Being prepared isn’t just smart—it’s essential.

I’m passionate about water preparedness because I’ve seen firsthand how quickly communities can face critical shortages. Just recently, while getting my hair cut, I noticed Hurricane Michael’s devastation playing on the salon television. I asked my stylist—a newlywed living paycheck to paycheck—if she had any water stored at home. Her answer? “No, not yet.”

While we may live far from hurricane zones, no community is immune to water emergencies. In 2013, our area experienced a 500-year flood. These extreme events are becoming more common, and they all share one critical threat: compromised water systems.

How Much Water Do You Really Need?

I recommend storing 4 gallons of water per person per day. Some consider this excessive, but this accounts for drinking, cooking, and basic hygiene needs. You may also need to assist neighbors who haven’t prepared.

Many people assume their water heater’s 50 gallons provide adequate backup. However, if your municipal water becomes contaminated—whether from infrastructure failure or other causes—that reserve becomes unusable. Remember Flint, Michigan, where poor decisions by local authorities resulted in widespread lead poisoning through the water supply.

Water Calculation Formula

To determine your household’s minimum water requirements:

Number of people × 4 gallons × Number of days = Total gallons needed
For a family of four preparing for a two-week emergency: 4 people × 4 gallons × 14 days = 224 gallons

This calculation provides a realistic baseline for adequate preparedness. While FEMA suggests a minimum of 1 gallon per person per day, experience with actual emergencies demonstrates this is rarely sufficient for maintaining hygiene and cooking needs during extended disruptions.

Water Storage Options

Bottled Water

Calculate your household’s needs for one week, two weeks, or a month. Cases of bottled water (12-ounce, 16-ounce, or 20-ounce) provide convenient storage. While not the most cost-effective solution, they require no preparation and are ready for immediate use.

Example: A family of four requiring 4 gallons per person per day would need 112 gallons for a one-week emergency. This translates to approximately 851 16-ounce bottles or 71 cases of 24-count water bottles.